Taiwan Family Holiday - Shifen sky lanterns and waterfall

Taiwan Day 6

With the weather forecast as cloudy with minimal rain, we set out by train to visit Shifen.

When I asked around about places to visit in Taiwan, Shifen was a very popular suggestion.  Shifen is a small historical railroad town that is now visited primarily to release sky lanterns.  The images of sk lanterns floating dreamily above the town are very beautiful and lighting a sky lantern was also something special that we could enjoy doing together as a family.

Shifen is conveniently located along the Pinxi (also written as Pinghsi) railway line which is supplied by the Train Railway Administration (TRA) network of trains.  Therefore, travelling to Shifen by train is very straight forward.

How to travel to Shifen:

To travel to Shifen from Taipei, transfer to the TRA platform at Taipei Main Station (follow the signs) and take a train to Ruifang, then transfer to the Pingxi Line to Shifen.  The timetables are listed on the TRA website (link here). 

Note: Select the 'Timetable' button and not 'English' and input your start and final destination.  This is what will appear:

The Tze-Chiang Limited Express trains take just 35 minutes to the Ruifang versus the Local Train which takes nearly an hour.  From Ruifang, you need to change platforms for the Pingxi train to Shifen.  The Pingxi trains only depart every hour so you don't want to miss this connection and we planned accordingly.

We bought our tickets at Taipei Main Station.  The ticket counter staff spoke English and had no issue understanding we wanted the express train and an onward connection to Shifen.  The express trains have reserved seats and I'm glad we paid for a seat for Mr A because it was a full train and the younger Mr R wouldn't sit on me for the whole journey and kept wanting to walk about.  In retrospect I think we should have got him his own seat to avoid him annoying the stranger next to us but then again it is only a half an hour journey.

The transfer at Ruifang to the Pingxi platform was very straight forward as there are plenty of signs with posters of the famous sky lanterns to confirm the correct platform.  That and all the other tourists waiting for the same train who can help with directions.

Child tickets cost about half the adult fare from Taipei to Shifen via Ruifang

The Pingxi train ride to Shifen was really scenic as it winded around the mountain and above the river.  The greenery is really beautiful and worth the trip alone.  The train takes you past the path to Shifen Waterfall though we didn't realise it at the time.  As we pulled into Shifen tiny sky lanterns could be spotted floating above the town carrying the wishes of their authors far away.  It was at this time I realised the only person who would have anything ready to write on their side of the lantern would be Mr A who had told me all the things he wanted to paint.  I guess I would have to wing it.

We disembarked at Shifen station and I was amazed that how many people were already writing their sky lanterns at that time in the morning and midweek!  

Shifen town is literally built on the train tracks.  While everyone was busy writing, launching and photographing their lanterns on the tracks, the shop keepers kept an eye on the train signal box for incoming trains.  When a train was approaching everyone yelled that the train was coming and people frantically scrambled off the tracks.  The trains rumbled pass everyone and the kids were so excited to see the trains pass so close by.  Once the train passed by all the tourists scurried back to the middle of the tracks to continue launching their lanterns up into the sky.  It made for quite a humorous scene.

My research had revealed the price of the lantern is fixed between all the shops.  It cost NTD150 for a single coloured lantern and NTD200 for a lantern with 4 different colours.  Also I think it was good advise to walk to the end of the line of shops in order to avoid being photobombed when you launch your own lantern.  True enough the hoards of tourists petered out as we headed to the end of the line.  In fact the shop we visited had no customers and to me that meant the two kids could take all the time they wanted to decorate their lanterns without being rushed.  

We chose a four coloured lantern and the shop lady mounted it onto a metal frame easel and handed me a Chinese calligraphy paint brush to write my wishes in my best penmanship.  Not.  How I wished I could write Chinese now or my grandfather was here to write something fancy.  Or perhaps I was glad he wasn't going to witness that I couldn't write a thing in Chinese.  And I have taken Chinese painting classes before too.  Shame! 

When Mr A stepped up to the lantern he was ready for action and he definitely had a ball decorating his side.  Nothing says creative freedom like a 4 year old with a blank canvas.  He definitely created the most uniquely decorated lantern I saw all day. 

Then Mr R and the Hubs had their turns and somehow Mr R managed to get black ink on his hat and in other places only he could and all within 2 minutes of wielding his brush. We had to peel the brush out of his hand or he wouldn't stop. 

Our shop was literally the last one open at the end of the tracks

When we were ready with our lantern, the shop owners positioned us for a very well rehearsed photo session capturing each side of the lantern.  One staff took photos and videos for us while the other lit the paper fuel n helped us float the lantern away successfully.  Thankfully there were no misfires and our family's sky lantern floated off successfully.  As Mr A commented, thank goodness we took photos so we can always remember what we painted. 

It was over a lot faster than I anticipated actually.  I don't know why but I thought it might float away more slowly so the moment would linger I suppose. 

Mr A also asked what would happen to our lantern after it floated off into the distance and I must admit I didn't know and felt environmental guilt at not being able to answer him, especially because he has been learning about saving the planet at school.  I did some research and the best I can tell is apparently the staff pay workers to go out to retrieve all the debris afterwards and dispose of the rubbish properly.  

Our task accomplished, we stopped for a coffee break and the kids had a snack while we watched more lanterns float outside and noisy trains roll past.  The town was quieter than I imagine it would be during peak tourist season and a lot of the stalls were not open.   Even still, I'm really glad we visited midweek and earlier in the day too because when we stepped outside of the cafe, the tourist groups had grown and it was starting to get crowded at the most popular area next to the station. We had to push pass people in search of place for lunch.   A couple of times we were distracted by delicious street snacks like the chicken wings stuffed with sticky rice and a stall selling freeze dried vegetable chips.

There was one restaurant that was full of customers devouring bowls of noodle soup and plates of steamed chicken.  It was a real mum and dad operation where we could see an aunty washing vegetables around the corner and bringing them around to the chef to stir fry.  Thankfully we didn't wait long and got a table right in the centre of the shop behind the little kitchen and the centre of all the activity.  There was a menu with photos of the dishes and the lady who seemed in charge helped with her own recommendations.  We had the cut chicken, an unintentionally spicy beef noodle soup, hand made rice noodles with a simple soya dressing and garlic stir fried local green vegetables.  We didn't know which type of vegetable they were but it was a highlight of the meal.  We couldn't stop commenting how delicious they were or maybe my body just really craved vegetables. 

After lunch we decided to walk to Shifen Waterfall, a 20 minute walk from the train station.  The walk was very pleasant and scenic.  One blog I had read said it was a hike and to take a taxi.  This made me nervous with the two kids in tow especially after lunch when they should nap.  But we gave it a go and the kids were real troopers.  

At the end of the strip of shops along the tracks there was a sign pointing to Shifen Waterfall.  We followed the road to the right and went up a hill into a very quiet area where surprisingly there were still tourists painting lanterns far away from the train track and crowds.  Eventually we left the town and crossed the river over a number of suspension bridges.  There were some stairs to climb so I admit it may be a bit strenuous for some people.  And we did have to carry the stroller with us so if you bring one, make sure it's light!

At one point along the footpath we saw three ladies gathered by a fenced off area and one lady had climbed over to forage some herbs or vegetables from the ground into plastic bags! 

Just before Shifen Waterfall is an area decorated with horse statues and swings in what feels like an attempt to bring some sense of majesty to the entrance of the waterfall.  But the actual viewing area for the waterfall is now very touristy.  Just before the first suspension bridge, there was an empty visitor centre that was clearly abandoned due to the better located food and souvenir shops right next to the waterfall viewing area.  Bus loads of tourists were being dropped off at the falls when we arrived so we had to jostle for a photo at the waterfall.  

Shifen Waterfall has been described as "the Niagara Falls of Taiwan" but don't have that expectation. I almost thought we hadn't reached the falls yet because they were much smaller in person than the photos.  Of course the waterfall is a really beautiful natural feature but with the viewing area so built up it overtakes the waterfall itself and it did feel quite underwhelming. 

The image that will attract you to Shifen Waterfall 

What you really see

There were signs for a trail hike that may allow a closer look and appreciation of the waterfall and surrounding forest without the eyesore of manmade concrete and numerous selfie sticks in your face.  I think I enjoyed the walk there more than the actual waterfall and I was still glad we did it but if you were pressed for time, you wouldn't be missing out if your skipped Shifen Waterfall. 

By this time it was a bit late and the rain felt like it was brewing and so with it the number of tourists being dropped off by the bus load was growing too.  Our walk back was faster because we were trying to run for cover from the spitting rain.  We headed to Shifen station to buy tickets back to Taipei Main Station and by this time all trains were absolutely packed with people.  We put Mr R to nap in the stroller and Mr A just managed to grab a seat or it was standing room only.  As we headed back to Ruifang station, we saw the rain start to fall, umbrellas out in full force and we knew we had made it out just in time.  When we arrived at Ruifang there was a train about to depart to Taipei but I admit I hesitated too long whether it was the correct train and we missed the express train back.  Totally my fault.  Only the express trains have reserved seats so if you see a train with seats take it. But we took the next train which was a local train that took nearly twice the time to arrive at Taipei Main Station but it allowed Mr A to lie down and have himself a nap.  It was a good restful way to finish a very nice day out of town. 

Back in Taipei we took the MRT back to Da'an and the Hubs said he had been highly recommended Jiyuan Szechuan Restaurant by his work colleagues for dinner.  It took a brisk walk in the rain to find the restaurant which reminded me of an old China town restaurant in Melbourne.  A huge kitchen at the entrance displayed massive vats of soup and rows of clay pots awaiting customer orders.  There was a dirty maroon carpet and a huge staircase that led downstairs into the belly of this huge restaurant.  We must have beat rush time because there was only 1 table occupied downstairs and at least 10 wait staff loitering as we reached the bottom.  We were given a table and The Hubs pointed to the soup at the table next to us.  The soup was EPIC.  I secretly think his work colleagues had challenged him to order it as a practical joke.  But when in Rome apparently...  

When the soup arrived it needed its own trolley to carry it from the kitchen to the table and inside the clay pot a whole chicken was bathing in its own hot tub.  Someone told The Hubs that they had finished the soup on their own.  I know this was a lie.  We could barely make the level of soup lower after the grown ups had their second round of soup.  Thank goodness we only ordered a veggie dish and some rice to complete the meal.  The soup was amazingly rich and delicious and clearly the result of an age long recipe and long slow brewing.  My only gripe was it was a little too salty and needed to be eaten with rice.  The kids both loved it but certainly were not much help in finishing the pot. Overall, it felt like a very nourishing meal and made up for some excessive fried food the day before.  

The beast of a soup

At some point we all had to wave our white flags of surrender to the soup.  Soup 1: Our family 0.  It felt like we were defeated by quite a few meals in Taiwan now.  A wait staff asked us if we wanted to take it home and we agreed because it just felt wasteful to leave behind.  When she returned it had been poured into a massive plastic bag.  The leftover liquid and chicken carcass weighed more than our stroller.  Actually it would have been easier to push the soup home in the stroller than carry it.  It was absolutely ridiculous and I couldn't see how we were going to finish it since our accommodation didn't even have a pot and only provided us with one spoon.  But we lugged that chicken soup baby all the way home and up four flights of stairs and I diligently shoved the soup bladder into the fridge. 

And there it sits still.  Imagine the surprise our accommodation host had when she found it there. Priceless.